We drove Rue Royale, AKA Rte 360, one of the oldest roads in Canada, built around 1650. Farmers owned strips of land from the cliffs to the river. Le Segneuer (the Governor of the area) commanded that the farmers build a road on their properties in order to deliver their farmed crops to Quebec City. For a quicker trip through the area drive Rte. 138, which runs along the St. Lawrence River. But for a sense of history and scenic beauty, Rue Royale is the preferred choice. All along the road are homes from the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, from the simple thatch roof houses, to the mansard roofs with lips to help remove the snow, Victorian mansions also dot the road.
Not to be missed along the way is the Interpretive Center in Chateau-Richer, where a docent retells the four hundred year history of the area using models to illustrate her presentation. Many of the buildings she talks about are still on the road. The Center is housed in an old convent, erected in 1903. This is the third convent, or school, built on the site. The foundations from the original one erected in 1694 are still visible in the basement.
Further East is the Sugar Shack, a small farm, which produces different organic maple sugar products. The owner explains the methods of sugar collection. It is not the sap which is collected, but the sugar water, which flows when there is a freeze and a thaw on the same day. This can go one for about a week until the sap flows. The sugar water is then boiled down to make syrup, jellies, mustard, and vinegar. Of course samples are available and a purchase is always welcomed. We bought some mustard and vinegar. They also gave us some interesting recipes. They ship to anywhere in the world.
A few more kilometers down the road is the Atelier Pare, a museum of woodcarvings of the different legends of the French Canadians. Although the original sculpturer died a few years ago, his work continues on in the open workshop, which is opened for viewing. At this time the carver was working on a large piece of a view of the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City. A similar piece was selling for $7,000.00. Smaller sculptures were also available at more reasonable prices.
A few more kilometers East is the Shrine of Saint Anne de Beaupre, dedicated to St. Anne, the mother of Mary. The original church, destroyed by fire In 1922, was replaced by a large gothic style one with over 240 stained glass windows. Pilgrims have been coming here for over three hundred years to drink of the waters from the spring. Numerous crutches and canes attest to the miracles, which have occurred. When I was there forty years ago, I remembered it as something different. The reason is that the shrine was still under construction and was not completed until 1976. Also on the property are the Santa Scalla, reputed to be a replica of the steps which Jesus climbed to see Pontius Pilate. Pilgrims climb these steps on their knees saying a short prayer on each one. A life sized Way of the Cross, molded in bronze winds its way up a steep hill. Across the road is a free dry camping area for the pilgrims. It sits on the shore of the St. Lawrence River.
A few more kilometers East is the town of St. Joachim, one of the oldest farming communities in Quebec Province. St. Joachim happens to be the father of Mary. This is not mentioned in the Bible, but in one of the apocrypha. The original church, burned by the British, was replaced in 1779. An audio presentation gives a history of the parish and the artwork in the church. In the same area is the Cap Tourmente Wildlife refuge, a stopover for the migratory snow geese and other birds returning from their winter vacation South.
Back to the main highway, Rte 138 is the Mount Anne Canyon and Falls. For a fee you can take the tram and visit the falls and canyon with many suspension bridges overlooking the falls. If you stay on Rte 360 you will find Mount Ste. Anne ski resort and the Interpretation center of the Les Sept Falls, part of the hydroelectric plant for the region. Admission fees are required to visit these sites.
Overall we traveled about 100 miles touring this beautiful area of the Laurentian Mountains and the coastal river plains.
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